ROBERT LEE MORRIS
GALLERY

By the time he was 31, Morris had become one of the most influential jewelry designers in North America: his creations appeared all over fashion magazines like Vogue; his Manhattan jewelry store had become a favorite spot of celebrities like Bianca Jagger and Andy Warhol; and his work was marching down the runways of Calvin Klein, Karl Lagerfeld, Kansai Yamamoto and Donna Karan. In this coffee-table book cum memoir, Morris explains “how he grew from a self-taught jewelry designer to a recognizable brand name in such a relatively short time.” The designer, who is known for his “edgy blend of modern and tribal effects,” attributes his global sensibility to his college courses in anthropology and to his upbringing as an “Airforce brat.” He moved 23 times before he was 18 and lived for several years in Japan and Brazil. But its clear that the mainsprings of Morris’ success are his joyful, single-minded focus on his work and his savvy entrepreneurial spirit. Though his book contains asides on his marriage, his travels and his study of shamanism, it centers mostly on the origins of his signature creations, the development of the “designer jewelry” consumer niche in the 1970s and 80s, and the way he managed his brand “as if it were a wild horse in a rodeo.” Morris now designs up to 10 jewelry collections a year, and though the name-dropping can be a bit heavy-handed in spots, his memoir is full of friendly advice for young artists. Morris fans will appreciate this careful history, but readers unfamiliar with his designs may find themselves skipping pages to stare at the large, full-color photos of his smooth knuckle rings, gently bulging necklaces, mesh belts, herringbone collars and sensual bracelets. They are unlike anything else.